January 2, 2012
As Falls Wichita, so Falls Wichita Falls

Listening to this makes me want to drive a long distance late at night.

December 31, 2011
Top Ten Wines of 2011. No. 1: 1971 Clos de la Roche “Cuvee Vieilles Vignes” Domaine Ponsot

Had this at Commerce with a good friend of mine.  It took me nearly 30 minutes to find the place.  It’s in the West Village but sits on a quiet, sleepy cul de sac on the west side of 7th Avenue.  Ill remember next time that it’s on the same block as the Cherry Street Theatre. I had heard about the place from the guy who owns Evening Land Vineyards.  Said he goes there all the time and that the roast chicken was the bomb. Sounded good to me as we needed a simple, somewhat neutral dish to play a background foil to the genius ‘71 Ponsot.  The bottle looked great but the fill was a little low, at the bottom of the neck in fact.  Not a good sign but not necessarily a deal breaker. I opened the bottle myself at the table.  Poured my friend a taste and then one for me.  We smelled at the same time and in stereo yelped “WOAH.” I started moving back in forth in my seat and did a little dance. That nose told us everything. It hit you in the heart like a lawn dart. Bulls-eye. The nose tells you everything.  You can tell if a wine is great, dead or fake just from smelling it.  That’s all I wanted to do.  Smell that sucker.  Incredibly dark and dank black cherry nose.  Deep, dark and dank. And then it hit me…MULCH.  It smelled like the summer of 1997.  I was landscaping that entire summer between my Sophomore and Junior year in college. I hated it. The first day the owner threw a sputtering weed wacker at me for not listening to him.  I bet he never tasted ‘71 CDR Ponsot. Like the ‘71 DRC Richebourg, food ceased to matter when this was in front of me. The roast chicken became cold but I didn’t care.  I just kept smelling the sweet mulch aromas in the wine and kept accessing the landscaping vignettes in my head.  Wines like these keep you from being a good dinner guest. They put you inside of yourself.  Unable to perform small talk or help wash dishes. I’ve never deep sea scuba dived or sailed on a boat by myself but I bet the feeling is similar.  We finally finished the bottle and picked up our conversation where it left off before we had the first sip.  Back to reality.  Back to rent payments, 401K, cat food, toothpaste, shoe shines and corkscrews.  Thank God for corkscrews.

December 30, 2011
Top Ten Wines of 2011. No. 2: 1971 Richebourg, Domaine de la Romanee Conti (Magnum)

Had this with Big G & the boys in Nantucket. Magnum sized.  Tip top condition with the London importer label which is usually a good sign.  There’s something holy that happens when you open great bottles of wine.  Everyone becomes quiet and speaks in hushed voices.  The bottles seem to have a magnetic force that pulls you to it to flank the one who’s doing the opening. You slowly watch as he cuts the foil, pulls out the Ah-So cork-puller and the Pulltab waiters corkscrew just in case.  The cork comes out and you hold your breath. Please don’t be corked, cooked, dead, maderized, oxidized, re-fermenting or counterfeit you say to yourself.  Then the moment happens.  You learn it isn’t any of those things, it’s actually a incredible bottle of liquid that’s beat the odds and here it is on the dinner table for us to celebrate. Rejoice.

This was the centerpiece to a dinner we had in October.  The anticipation of tasting it was great. We had fantastic bottles preceding it but they didn’t really register. The mag of ‘71 Richebourg was the main event. The food was served and the glasses were poured.  I smelled, then smiled, then became silent.  We all became silent.  The clock stopped. It was like we were all underwater. Unable to communicate, just miming words. Each of us in our own place.  No one touched the food for a good 10 minutes. Perfect bottle of wine. Layers and layers of flavor.  Sweet black fruit. Soy sauce. Autumn leaves. All spice. A truly amazing bottle of Red Burgundy that survived 40 years and had this effect on 5 grown men. How holy can you get? 

December 30, 2011
Top Ten Wines of 2011. No. 3: 1982 Salon Champagne Brut “Blanc des Blancs”

This was a bottle left over from a private dinner at the restaurant. About 25 bottles were opened altogether. There was 1/3 of this left.  I snatched it as everyone had left and grabbed my manager meal and burrowed into my office.  It was a long, physical service and sitting down with a glass of Champagne was what I needed. I usually don’t want to drink wine after service. I taste wine all night, analyzing every bottle that gets served to guests. Checking to be sure that the wines are sound, free of flaws etc. Beer is usually the beverage of choice when I sit down as it helps shut down the analytical side of my brain.  However there was no way I could refuse a glass of the legendary ‘82 Salon. This bottle turned out to be incredibly fresh.  There’s word among collectors that aged bottles of Salon have a tendency to oxidize prematurely. And ‘82 is said to be one of the worst offenders.  Not so with this bottle.  The lemon and Granny Smith apple flavors in its youth had transformed to caramel and shortbread cookie.  There was also a streak of salinity that washed over like high tide. I kept looking at the bottle as I was drinking it and said to my self “holy sh**, this is INCREDIBLE.” It had instantly changed my mood.  It was nearly 11:30 pm and well past quitting time yet I decided I wasn’t going to leave my broom-closet sized office until the bottle was emptied. The experience was similar to when you’re listening to music in your car, and you’ve already arrived home. You’re in your driveway but its impossible to move because the music sounds so perfect and the moment demands you stay until the end.  I poured another glass and was feeling the spirit take hold. I started playing some music. I loosened my tie and smiled.  I kept sighing. In that moment anything felt possible. Wines like ‘82 Salon can make a poet/ motivational speaker out of anyone. I took my last sip and saw that it was 1:00am.  Everyone had left and the hallway was pitch dark.  I used my Iphone to light my way to the kitchen. Walking through on my way to the exit I saw the dishwasher eating french fries and the night porter wearing a dust mask while cleaning the ovens. “Bonne Nuit/ Adios” I shouted to them with the taste of ‘82 Salon still on my tongue.  

December 28, 2011
Top Ten Wines of 2011. No. 4: 1985 Clos de la Roche “Cuvee Vieilles Vignes” Domaine Ponsot

This wine made me emotional. I put my nose in it and it immediately grabbed me by the collar and said “wake up wine nerd!”  I woke up. It’s incredible that great wine can do that. I kept letting out groans as I was assessing it and making a spectacle of myself. I couldn’t help it. It was so perfect.  So feminine and masculine at the same time. Soft, supple, sweet black fruit and a meaty beef broth flavor that worked together beautifully. Life becomes heightened with wines like these.    

December 26, 2011

Anonymous asked: NO. 6?

My no 6. was ‘97 Chave. 

December 26, 2011
Top Ten Wines of 2011. No. 5: 1990 Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru “Cros Parantoux” Henri Jayer

Greg opened this to celebrate his birthday in Beaune. That evening it ended up being all of our birthdays.  He said he had a special bottle he wanted to open up and when he showed it to us our mouths dropped. I almost teared up at his generosity.  I felt so fortunate.  I thought of my parents for some reason.   It was about 6 of us at the table.  A few NYC somms. A few Burgundian winemakers and Greg. The restaurant sommeliers’ eyes looked like flying saucers as he saw the bottle and rushed to the table to open it up.  We saw the way he handled the last few bottles and politely told him we’d prefer to open it ourselves.  He demurred and begrudgingly brought us over a candle and wicker cradle. We all stood up and watched  DJ do the honors as if he was performing heart surgery.  Cork came out perfectly.  He poured a small amount into a glass and smelled it….he smiled, grabbed his heart and faked like he was fainting.  It was legit. We didn’t want to move the bottle too much so we all crowded around it to get our individual glass. I got mine and sat down and just sniffed for 5 minutes before I took a sip.  Jayer’s wines are mythical.  So rich and plush but pure. So easy to love. The ‘90 was pushing the limits of ripeness but never did it feel heavy. It still retained a balance and elegance that few other winemakers could pull off. I find a common thread between the Red Burgundies of Henri Jayer and the White Burgundies of JF Coche. Both of their styles are very upfront and easy to appreciate. I’m convinced that if you handed someone who has never tasted wine before a glass of Jayer or Coche they would “get it” and say its delicious. They satisfy a primal taste.  But they are more than that.  They are also incredibly intricate with pitch-perfect precision. Yin & Yang.

December 24, 2011
Top Ten Wines of 2011. No. 6: 1997 Hermitage Rouge, JL Chave

Had this at DJ’s crib for a Memorial Day picnic.  All the wine nerds were there:  LD, EA,RV,DH, etc.  We were popping bottles of Burgundy like it was it was our jobs (it is!).  Nice weather and incredible food. There was even a bluegrass band there plucking away and singing some Grapes of Wrath type music. It was a perfect way to kick off the summer.  We opened some great wines. Some lived up to their reputations, others did not.   Some wines were corked.  Some were flat.  Some were dead. Some were so good that the crowd became silent. The ’97 Chave Hermitage Rouge had that effect on me. It’s not considered a great year in the Chave canon but it was GREAT at that picnic. Not too young.  Tannins were soft and sweet.  No scraping dryness.  Adolescent aromas were starting to bloom. Just right.

PS: Can anyone identify the gent with the cheshire cat smile behind the bottle?

December 22, 2011
Top Ten Wines of 2011. No. 7: 1979 Philipponnat Champagne “Clos des Goisses”

This was a stunner.  Popped and poured at B’s Annual Birthday Bash.  All things being equal, if I had to choose one type of wine to drink everyday for the rest of my life, it would have to be Champagne.  Aged Champagne that is.  The transformation of Champagne from a hard-edged Granny Smith Apple tasting sparkler to a lush, nougat and creme brulee flavored elixir is nothing short of alchemy.  The Clos des Goisses is one of the most blessed pieces of land in all of the Champagne region and is a blend dominated by Pinot Noir.  The richness of the Pinot Noir came through in the caramel candy and cashew nut flavors of the ‘79. The bottle disappeared like vapor.  

December 21, 2011
Does the Vinturi Wine Aerator Really Improve Wine? : bonappetit.com

I say “Ass” too much

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